And I’d wager that Kottu House’s Sri Lankan contemporaries don’t serve pineapple cider. The restaurant also offers dark, malty Lion stout (a Sri Lankan brand) on tap.

They’re the size and shape of Hot Pockets, but the beef rolls Sandya De Silva and Chelaka Gunamuni serve at Kottu House (250 Broome Street; 646-781-9222) have little else in common with that ...