Muhammad Maqbool Jan, a papier mâché artist, has been working on a map of Srinagar as it used to be under the Dogra kings for over two years. Putting the finishing touches on the 5 x 7 ft cloth ...

I took a walk through Srinagar’s city centre, from Rajbagh to the Batamaloo-Lal Chowk road to the bund on the river Jhelum, to map the signposts of a new Srinagar, and the silences that float in ...