Aldama is one of the few local restaurants serving mole negro with little else; a few ounces of the dark elixir command $30. Chefs slowly cook down anchos, cascabels, walnuts, hazelnuts, almonds ...

Fueled by mezcal and house-made tortillas until two o’clock most nights, Aldama might be the closest thing Brooklyn has to the hip, late-night bars of Mexico City. In the back rooms of this ...